To get an idea of how much power i actually need i had a look at the small commercial IR-Heaters and Hot-Plates – Haljia 24 V96 W WIRED MCH Metal Ceramic Heating Plate Heating Element 40 mm x 40 mm Haljia 12 V48 W Wire MCH Metal Ceramic Heating Plate Heating Element 40 mm x 40 mm Haljia 24V 110W Wired MCH Metal Ceramic Heating Plate Heating Element 70mm x 15mm HALJIA 12V 70W Wired MCH Metal Ceramic Heating Plate Heating Element 70mm x 15mm So i went on with some help of friends and found dimensions There is a link to amazon for a element – and it is not available to delivery to germany □ The idea came from this Applied Science Video:Įlectroluminescent paint and multi-channel control circuit This way i can warm up quicker and cool down much quicker as i do not store heat in the stone. in the long run i hope with the other frame concept i get more heat to the pcb and less into the stone and this way be able to use the 3S config.Īfter a day of mostly waiting til the system cooled down again While having a break i thought about the maximal power in this configuration –Īnd found that this way i only be able to power 2×2 modules with my 250W power supply.įor now i leave it this way. So i will have to re-tune it to get less overshoot / swing. The nice and working pid tuning i had for the 4-in-series arrangement is now out of tune… I also tested this with the Felder profile: Temperature / Resistance – 2 Modules in Series – 24V/Module Now i have a 2-in-series config: 24V/ModuleĬURRENTLY THIS TABLE IS ONLY CALCULATED VALUES!! Temperature (☌) This way i also can cool the bottom side. In the *my setup* picture is a temporary cardboard thing with a 80mm 12V fan (connected to 5V) to cool down faster between tests.įor the final setup i think i will buy 1 or two 5V and PWM capable fans….Īnd also exchange the *chamotte* ston with some metal frame. I then tested the profile for the Felder ISO-Cream “Clear” and found that in the reflow stage the heat-up is a little to slow: config:3S profile:Felder ISO-Cream “Clear” my setup With this i found that i can go above 255☌. Temperature / Resistance 3 Modules in Series – 16V/Module This means ~16V/Module – and tested again: Temperature (☌) I rearranged the Modules into 3-in-series connection. Result: the ~57W is not enough to get to more than 255☌… Temperature / Resistance – 4 Modules in Series – 12V/Module (4x in series → 48V/4=~12V/Module) Temperature (☌) So i measured the resistance during the cool down of the heating elements to get some insights: I could see this in my graph as the heating got slower and slower with the rising temperature… (also the pid already saturated at the output.) and the temperature did not increase any more. bigger / second power supply ?! (~750W)įor tuning i followed more or less the tutorial PID Without a PhDĪnd the tutorial and video from PID Explained Team.įirst i just checked with low temperatures of 20.40☌Īs i went on and tested up to 260☌ i noticed that the current did decrease.switchable configuration for long or more square pcbs?!.more heating elements for bigger working area.quite 5V fan with PWM control for cooling.i would like to have class at the top for a good view what is happening inside.So will keep an eye on this and improve it. In general i have the feeling that my heating elements get a little bit to hot – the pcb also slightly discolored at on place… They melted away □ – lesson learned – have a look in the datasheet and you know that they are very heat sensitive! My profile is just a little bit to long for my right angle touch switches: I added a paper-lid to have stable air inside. i think that is ok with about ~12 times solder cycles.Īnd then started to assemble a simple board to really test the profile □ placed it smells very bad – is super dark discolored. i comes from my LEDBoard_4x4_16bit project – and if i remember correctly i backed it with the assembled board in the oven multiple times back then. The old left-over pcb i use for these is done now. Then i found it is in the middle of the reflow – sorry… and closed the window again – until it really switched to cooling. Yeah… at the top i thought it is in the cooling step already and opened the window – with ~3☌ cold air from outside it dropped fast. This morning i did a last test-run with the tweaked Felder ISO-Cream profile:
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